After 12 hours from Cartagena arrived at Medallin. There was a time when we wanted to stay in Medallin for an extended period of time, but after 3 days, I was done. It had a "new" area where all the expensive hotels, restaurants, shops are. A bunch of North American and European brands, if you'd just arrive there, you wouldn't say that you're in a 3rd world country. But I don't like areas like that. Everything is expensive, and we can't really afford it, and I'm not too much into window shopping. We walked around the city for a day. Saw some church, botanical gardens, Botero square, took a cable car (which is part of a public transport) to the top and back without getting out :)
On another day we went to El Peniol which is a humongous rock in the middle of nowhere. It's 200 meter high, there is nothing growing on it, and 650 stairs leading up to the top. The view is really nice in there, but there is not much to do. It took us 2 hours to get there, so we spent the whole afternoon on the top just enjoying the view and the sun :) That's pretty much everything about Medallin. On a 3rd day we took a bus south. Geoff got off at Armenia, and I continued to Cali.
pix at http://picasaweb.google.com/ed4330/Medallin#
In Cali just relaxed for a month. Went to gym, a zoo - which is the cleanest zoo I've ever been to.
In the hostel I met one guy while waiting for Geoff. We started talking, and I told him that me and another girl are travelling together, but her sister came to visit, so she went north while I'm waiting for her in here. And he goes, oh yeah, Eva, I know her ... !!!!!!! My jaw fell, I was stearing at him with disbelieve. Apperantly they were together in the same hostel in Medallin. But I guess it's something to get used to. It's very common to meet people here that you met hell knows where. There was one guy who we met in parque Tayrona, then he stayed in our hostel in Santa Marta (which is ok, since they're very close, and our hostel is the most popular one), but then we met him in the same hotel in Pasto which is 31 hours from Santa Marta. And Pasto is huge, with hundreds of hotels in it!!
Also in Cali took some salsa lessons, and assisted Salsa classes in the hostel... oh, and cooked ALOT !!!! I missed home cooking so much, and things that I like to eat, that I was like a crazy maniac spending all days in the kitchen cooking and cooking. I made like 5 different jams too :))) Yummy :)) There was a festival in the city. So myself of 3 of my friends went to sell screw drivers on the street. Vodka and Orange Juice 3500! It was fun ! We sold like 50. And of course it's illegal without a license, but there was a police officer across the street, and he didn't say anything, I'd guess they don't care about small things like that. At the end of the festival there was a final show in the most dangerous place in Cali. 20 people went there mostly from the hostel. And what was funny is that all the backpackers were fine and relaxed, and all the locals paranoid. Why be paranoid?? There was more police there then actual people :) We stood in 4 different line ups to pass 4 checks where you got very extensively searched. One of the most famous salsa bands was playing there, but I couldn't tell the difference. It was nice because it was outside, so we could dance all we liked, and we did dance nonstop for 4 hours. At the end there were one of the most beautiful fireworks I've seen... I also went to a few live music performances of my friend. But other than that nothing special, just relaxed and enjoyed the hassle and the heat of Cali.
7 hours from Cali is a city of Pasto. Every year they have the "black & white" festival. The owner of the hostel (Carlos) and a bunch of his family, and of course Geoff and me went there in 2 cars. First all of us arrived at Carlos's farm on the outskirts of Cali, spent there the night, got woken up at 5 am and were given like 3 minutes to get ready and start driving. The guy in my car was crazy, we drove like 180 km/hr for 7 hours, and it was in the mountains and he was smoking marihuana. I got so motion sick :( I took like 3 doses of pills to control it. After 3 doses I felt better :) Pasto is great ! The streets were packed with people watching the carnival. Meanwhile the whole day and night everybody has foam sprays, paints and flour, and there is a constant war going on between everyone and everybody! It's supper fun chasing after people. There were traps and "gang" fights. The police was sprayed all the time too :) Thank god that our hotel was right in the center of the activity and there was a restaurant inside, so we were safe during the night. We also couldn't get out outside at night because it was getting too cold, and I didn't have warm cloths to ruin, so we were only outside till 6. There were 2 main squares with concerts going all day and all night long. Nobody is getting spared, absolutely everyone is sprayed. Doesn't matter if you don't want to ... if you don't want to, don't be in Pasto during the festival. All the streets were getting whiter and whiter as the days passed by. Once I was casually going on the street, harmless, trying to avoid getting splashed, looking to buy my weapon (the spray can) :) And I got so attacked by so many people, I couldn't see, couldn't breathe, didn't know where to escape to. And people see that you're helpless and being attacked, so more and more and more join in. After like a minute I just lifted my 2 arms up in the surrendering position, and finally they left me alone :)) All Carlos's family and Geoff formed a gang that started to attack cars. First kind of harmlessly spraying through the open windows, but after that, opening doors of cars, there were like 15 people surrounding the car, everybody sprays inside of the car, all the passengers, all the interior, there were some people with flour guns, that put like kilos of flour in one shot. Some people were fine, but my heart sank every time I saw that. I just couldn't imagine how much the cleaning bill would be, and if it all the equipment still work after such an attack. Some people obviously got so insanely mad, screaming, fighting. Someone even pulled a knife out ... I could really understand that! ... There were also fights between cars, it was very funny. There would be pickup tracks going with like 10 people on top, completely armed with everything they can. And once the 2 cars would approach each other, you couldn't see anything anymore, it was a huge white cloud around, no cars, no people, just more and more dust flying up :) You couldn't tell one person from another. Everybody is so white. The cloths, the hair, faces. All you could see is some white figure with sun glasses (which everybody had to have!). So black day is celebrated by people painting each other mostly with black paint. But a bunch of different colors were used, and the white day is the flour. So on the black day, people would come from behind, and put all their hands full of paint on your face. I had so many different colors on me. But each color would cover the other one. So at the end of one day I was completely black, but once I took a shower, there was a rainbow of colors washed off of me :) I couldn't take very good pictures, cause I knew my camera would just die. People would on purpose spray everything that shouldn't be sprayed. So I got out more in the quite time, or took it from hotel balcony, or hid in some corner where I could easily defend myself.This was one of the finest things I did in my life!!! I was so happy that I got to do it, and enjoy something so bizarre and cool and fun ! :))
pix at http://picasaweb.google.com/ed4330/Pasto#
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Saturday, January 2, 2010
The Coast
Got to the hostel in St. Marta. Out of all the hostels we've stayed in, this one is definitely the cheapest, and it really shows. All the paint on the walls is coming off, and because of all the vibrations of the ceiling due to the fan, I always woke up with paint dust all over me. The washrooms don't have doors, just some sheet hanging over, which blows with the fan. But for some reason, it didn't bother any of us, and we enjoyed our long stay there. Also, this hostel had a reputation for big drug usage. For sure not everybody used them, but the first night we got offered cocaine by some tour guide... I guess it was his side job or something.
St.Marta is surrounded by beaches. Unfortunately the beach in the city itself is not very swimable, so we always went to other towns nearby. Rodadero is one of them. It's ok. It's very commercial. The whole beach is packed with hotels, hundreds of vendors, double prices, and for tourists quadriple! We wanted to go on a banana boat, and they gave us double the price, but with Geoff's negotiation skills we always get the local price. For the banana boat, we even got it cheaper than what locals pay :) Went to another beach, and there is a boat that takes you there and back, the initial price was 20.000, and at the end we paid 3.500! Poor tourists! They're always getting ripped off, and we constantly need to be on guard. Ofcourse everything we do takes twice the time ... need to talk to locals, to all other vendors, bargain and bargain, pretend like we're walking away, in summary, it's one big headache.
In one of the bars in St.Marta we met 2 guys who are also backpackers whom we hung out with before. One was from Cali, and the other from San Gil. It's so cool how small the backpackers world is !Geoff and I went to Parque Tayrona. I loved this place! First we needed to hike for 1.5 hours to the beach, and the beach is amazing ! In the guidebook it says that it somehow reminds of jurasic park, and it definitely does! There is camping area where there are tents and hammocks, and it's pretty packed with people, but the beach is perfect. The water is crystal clear, sand and nature around it is so unspolied, no garbage, no human marks. The beach is right in the middle of a jungle, and in the water are mountains of rocks. We stayed there for 2 nights, and I could've stayed longer. The only thing is that I couldn't sleep because a few days earlier I was attacked by an army of mosquitos, and I didn't count all the bites, but just on half of 1 of my legs, there were over 60! So I was itching all nights long :(As a side note, it's common and actually a warm thing to call a woman fat !!! I was in shock, and couldn't belive it! "Hey fatty, could you bring me a beer!" It's something equivalent to sweety ! And I know that U.S. people are considered to be world's most obesse people, but I'm not sure about that. Most of the people in here are fat or least very chabby. They don't do any sports, and all they eat is grissy, deep fried food. So yeah, being fat is part of the culture, it's even considered to be sexy, but still is shocking to me.
Next big thing is Ciudad Perdida "The lost city". All the agencies created an agreement that the tour will cost 500.000 and nobody is willing to give a discount :( It's a 6 day tour, and our group was the 3 of us, 2 more girls, and 2 guides. When we just got to the starting point, there was this 80 year old woman who just came back from the hike!! The first day was ok, it was just 3.5 hours hike, but most of it was uphill, and nonstop uphill. One of the girls started complaining like crazy! What am I doing here? Why did I sign up for this? I wasn't born to do these kind of things!! on and on and on !!!! I wasn't complaining, and I hated the whole thing !! These endless hours of walking and walking. It's either physically challenging, or mentally challenging. And in the evening, there is nothing to do, we get dinner, and it gets dark at 5:30 with 5 people waiting till the time arrives to go to sleep. One evening was sort of entertaining, because Geoff learned some 4 lines of the song, and was singing it like 100 times non stop ! But I'm not sure if it was funny or painful. I think both :) Last day I think we went to sleep at 7 cause there is nothing else to do. we were staying with local indian families, but we didn't have much contact with them. It was just basically a shack that had outside washroom, space with roof on top where we ate and where the hammocks hung, and some "kitchen". Every place we stayed in, had a near by river access, so that was our daily freezing shower. We all were walking separate all the time. Eva was running in the front, Geoff felt sick the first 3 days, so he was usually in the back. Sometimes I stayed in the real back to go with my own pace and to try somehow to enjoy the nature without anybody around me. When we got to ciudad perdida, there was nothing interesting in there at all. Some circles on the ground - that's where the houses were standing 100s years ago, and a bunch of soldiers patrolling the place, and that's pretty much it !
The last day of the hike I got 2 blisters on both of my feet :( So I was walking slow just as is, and now with blisters, I think it turned into a snail pace. I asked the guides to wake me up an hour before everybody so I could have a head start, I didn't take a break in the middle, and arrived at our end point an hour after everybody else. Every step was followed by auu auuu auuuuuu .... for 8 hours ! But it was actually the best day of all, because I knew that soon we'll be done with all that horror!
On the way to Cartagena we stopped in Baranqilla. Somebody told Geoff that it's a great party town. Meanwhile I read nothing about it in the guidebook, and we have learned so far, that if the guidebook doesn't sound exciting, don't go there! I tried to convince him otherwise, but we still ended up going. And guess what? There is nothing to do there at all ! None of us liked absolutely nothing about the town except our hotel, which was one of the cheapest ones we got for it's quality. There was supposed to be some beach there where everybody parties, we went to that beach, it's empty, there is no sand, the water is dirty. We walked 5 minutes one way, 5 minutes back, and headed back to town. Eva left to Medallin that eve, and for me and Geoff it was too late to leave the hotel, so we stayed the night, and left to Cartagena the next morning.Cartagena is nice ! The street with all the hostels is 5 minutes from the old city center. It's preserved really well, and in the evenings the streets are full of people and music. There are tons of expensive bars, restaurants, and designer stores. These were the most expensive menues I've seen in Colombia, and needless to say I could afford only to drink cappuccino :( That's one of the things that I don't like while travelling, not dressing up nice, and not doing and eating what I want ... miss that sometimes.
Went to mangrove. Again the fight for price. It started at 45.000.
- ok 40.000 that's the lowest I can give you
- Noooo ... that's too expensive ... stood up to go away
- 35.000, last offer- Naaahhh ... we think we'll go look for another guide
- WHOOOOO?!?!!??? (he jumped from the table and shouted), 25.000 !
- How about 20.000?
- Ok, 20.000
Damn Colombians ! But the ride was nice, it's a canoe with the guide who manouvers it with a stick between narrow passages. I asked if I could stir it, and I was actually quite good ! :)) Manuevered it well around all the turns. When Geoff asked if he could do it, we got stuck at every corner, it was quite funny :)
The next day we went to the mud volcano. It hells know where. Got to the terminal. Nobody knows how to get there. Some people say that we need to take the bus that goes 3 times as far, and we would get off in the middle, but we have to pay the whole price of the bus. I think we spent an hour trying to figure it out, and then some boy told us that we need a different bus that's close to the terminal, and showed us how to get there. Again, not knowing the price, we bargained it down to 12.000 for 2 people. Geoff paid the way there. 2 hours on dirt road, we arrive at some intersection, where the mototaxies (the motorcycle taxi) are waiting to take you to the volcano. We decided to walk. The thing that we noticed that Colombians don't like to walk. Everytime we hear, "oh, that's way too far, take a taxi", and it takes like 5 minutes to get there. Here in the guidebook we read that it takes half an hour to get to the volcano, so we decided to do some sports and to walk. Needless to say everybody around us was almost shouting at us, and telling us that we're crazy for walking, and that we'll never get there and in all that heat, what are we thinking??? Anyyyway ... the walk was very nice, half an hour later we arrived at some mountain that looks almost man made, that's around 30 meters high, with a staircase leading up. It was very strange and extremely enjoyable experience. There is some guy who waits for you on the top, and takes pictures of you (for a tip). The mud is grey, thick, and clean. It holds you up, you can't sink even if you try to. Geoff even jumped from 2 meters and went down to his chest. It's calculated to be around 500 meters deep. We got covered all in it, face, hair, tried to swim, to do different positions. When we got up, there is a guy who stands there, who takes the mud off of you :), then you go to a lake nearby, and some women stand there, and wash you off :) They clean everything, and very hard (cause it's hard to wash off dried mud), ears, face, toes, chest, they also take your swimming suit off, and wash it for you :))) I've never experienced something like that in my whole life! Super fun ! On the way back we got a mototaxi, just in time to catch the last bus! On the bus it was my turn to pay, and I came up with a new theory that I'll give them how much money I think it should cost, like I know what I'm doing, and if it's not enough, they'll tell me. So I got out 10.000 bill, and casually gave it to the driver, and heard nothing back !!! Yippeee !!! Love it ! :)
Went to Playa Blanca which is supposed to be one of the most amazing beaches in Colombia where everybody goes. The way there was nice. First we took a bus across all the city, then a canoe to cross the river, and at the other side of the river there are mototaxies waiting to take tourists to the beach. It was a nice half an hour ride. Once we got there, we found a tent for 10.000 a night, perfect ! That was the best part of the beach, the way there (and the way back). There is no white sand ! There are no tropics ! It's overcrowded with people, tents, vendors, restaurants, people are hassling everybody all the time. We decided to get a massage. What a ripoff! You can't argue with them at all ! First of all they said it is half an hour, it was 15 minutes max. Then I said that I want a massage for 15.000, she said ok. During all the massage she tried to sell me more time, I said no, and insisted on only 15.000 like at least 5 times. At the end, she said, oh, it's 20.000. I said why? Oh, because I did the legs too. I tried to argue that I didn't ask for it, but it was pointless, and everything after that was just at the same level. I was irritated for the whole day, and couldn't wait for tomorrow to come so we could leave. I didn't swim at all, and woke up at 12 pm the next day just to spend less time on that beach. The way back was also nice, because it was a big boat, and they had a dance lesson there, which of course I joined, and of course I danced with the instructor !! :)))
Got back to Cartagena, and booked a ticket on a night bus to Medallin, and what do you know, Eva booked a bus ticket to cartagena on the same night :(
pix at http://picasaweb.google.com/ed4330/TheCoast#
St.Marta is surrounded by beaches. Unfortunately the beach in the city itself is not very swimable, so we always went to other towns nearby. Rodadero is one of them. It's ok. It's very commercial. The whole beach is packed with hotels, hundreds of vendors, double prices, and for tourists quadriple! We wanted to go on a banana boat, and they gave us double the price, but with Geoff's negotiation skills we always get the local price. For the banana boat, we even got it cheaper than what locals pay :) Went to another beach, and there is a boat that takes you there and back, the initial price was 20.000, and at the end we paid 3.500! Poor tourists! They're always getting ripped off, and we constantly need to be on guard. Ofcourse everything we do takes twice the time ... need to talk to locals, to all other vendors, bargain and bargain, pretend like we're walking away, in summary, it's one big headache.
In one of the bars in St.Marta we met 2 guys who are also backpackers whom we hung out with before. One was from Cali, and the other from San Gil. It's so cool how small the backpackers world is !Geoff and I went to Parque Tayrona. I loved this place! First we needed to hike for 1.5 hours to the beach, and the beach is amazing ! In the guidebook it says that it somehow reminds of jurasic park, and it definitely does! There is camping area where there are tents and hammocks, and it's pretty packed with people, but the beach is perfect. The water is crystal clear, sand and nature around it is so unspolied, no garbage, no human marks. The beach is right in the middle of a jungle, and in the water are mountains of rocks. We stayed there for 2 nights, and I could've stayed longer. The only thing is that I couldn't sleep because a few days earlier I was attacked by an army of mosquitos, and I didn't count all the bites, but just on half of 1 of my legs, there were over 60! So I was itching all nights long :(As a side note, it's common and actually a warm thing to call a woman fat !!! I was in shock, and couldn't belive it! "Hey fatty, could you bring me a beer!" It's something equivalent to sweety ! And I know that U.S. people are considered to be world's most obesse people, but I'm not sure about that. Most of the people in here are fat or least very chabby. They don't do any sports, and all they eat is grissy, deep fried food. So yeah, being fat is part of the culture, it's even considered to be sexy, but still is shocking to me.
Next big thing is Ciudad Perdida "The lost city". All the agencies created an agreement that the tour will cost 500.000 and nobody is willing to give a discount :( It's a 6 day tour, and our group was the 3 of us, 2 more girls, and 2 guides. When we just got to the starting point, there was this 80 year old woman who just came back from the hike!! The first day was ok, it was just 3.5 hours hike, but most of it was uphill, and nonstop uphill. One of the girls started complaining like crazy! What am I doing here? Why did I sign up for this? I wasn't born to do these kind of things!! on and on and on !!!! I wasn't complaining, and I hated the whole thing !! These endless hours of walking and walking. It's either physically challenging, or mentally challenging. And in the evening, there is nothing to do, we get dinner, and it gets dark at 5:30 with 5 people waiting till the time arrives to go to sleep. One evening was sort of entertaining, because Geoff learned some 4 lines of the song, and was singing it like 100 times non stop ! But I'm not sure if it was funny or painful. I think both :) Last day I think we went to sleep at 7 cause there is nothing else to do. we were staying with local indian families, but we didn't have much contact with them. It was just basically a shack that had outside washroom, space with roof on top where we ate and where the hammocks hung, and some "kitchen". Every place we stayed in, had a near by river access, so that was our daily freezing shower. We all were walking separate all the time. Eva was running in the front, Geoff felt sick the first 3 days, so he was usually in the back. Sometimes I stayed in the real back to go with my own pace and to try somehow to enjoy the nature without anybody around me. When we got to ciudad perdida, there was nothing interesting in there at all. Some circles on the ground - that's where the houses were standing 100s years ago, and a bunch of soldiers patrolling the place, and that's pretty much it !
The last day of the hike I got 2 blisters on both of my feet :( So I was walking slow just as is, and now with blisters, I think it turned into a snail pace. I asked the guides to wake me up an hour before everybody so I could have a head start, I didn't take a break in the middle, and arrived at our end point an hour after everybody else. Every step was followed by auu auuu auuuuuu .... for 8 hours ! But it was actually the best day of all, because I knew that soon we'll be done with all that horror!
On the way to Cartagena we stopped in Baranqilla. Somebody told Geoff that it's a great party town. Meanwhile I read nothing about it in the guidebook, and we have learned so far, that if the guidebook doesn't sound exciting, don't go there! I tried to convince him otherwise, but we still ended up going. And guess what? There is nothing to do there at all ! None of us liked absolutely nothing about the town except our hotel, which was one of the cheapest ones we got for it's quality. There was supposed to be some beach there where everybody parties, we went to that beach, it's empty, there is no sand, the water is dirty. We walked 5 minutes one way, 5 minutes back, and headed back to town. Eva left to Medallin that eve, and for me and Geoff it was too late to leave the hotel, so we stayed the night, and left to Cartagena the next morning.Cartagena is nice ! The street with all the hostels is 5 minutes from the old city center. It's preserved really well, and in the evenings the streets are full of people and music. There are tons of expensive bars, restaurants, and designer stores. These were the most expensive menues I've seen in Colombia, and needless to say I could afford only to drink cappuccino :( That's one of the things that I don't like while travelling, not dressing up nice, and not doing and eating what I want ... miss that sometimes.
Went to mangrove. Again the fight for price. It started at 45.000.
- ok 40.000 that's the lowest I can give you
- Noooo ... that's too expensive ... stood up to go away
- 35.000, last offer- Naaahhh ... we think we'll go look for another guide
- WHOOOOO?!?!!??? (he jumped from the table and shouted), 25.000 !
- How about 20.000?
- Ok, 20.000
Damn Colombians ! But the ride was nice, it's a canoe with the guide who manouvers it with a stick between narrow passages. I asked if I could stir it, and I was actually quite good ! :)) Manuevered it well around all the turns. When Geoff asked if he could do it, we got stuck at every corner, it was quite funny :)
The next day we went to the mud volcano. It hells know where. Got to the terminal. Nobody knows how to get there. Some people say that we need to take the bus that goes 3 times as far, and we would get off in the middle, but we have to pay the whole price of the bus. I think we spent an hour trying to figure it out, and then some boy told us that we need a different bus that's close to the terminal, and showed us how to get there. Again, not knowing the price, we bargained it down to 12.000 for 2 people. Geoff paid the way there. 2 hours on dirt road, we arrive at some intersection, where the mototaxies (the motorcycle taxi) are waiting to take you to the volcano. We decided to walk. The thing that we noticed that Colombians don't like to walk. Everytime we hear, "oh, that's way too far, take a taxi", and it takes like 5 minutes to get there. Here in the guidebook we read that it takes half an hour to get to the volcano, so we decided to do some sports and to walk. Needless to say everybody around us was almost shouting at us, and telling us that we're crazy for walking, and that we'll never get there and in all that heat, what are we thinking??? Anyyyway ... the walk was very nice, half an hour later we arrived at some mountain that looks almost man made, that's around 30 meters high, with a staircase leading up. It was very strange and extremely enjoyable experience. There is some guy who waits for you on the top, and takes pictures of you (for a tip). The mud is grey, thick, and clean. It holds you up, you can't sink even if you try to. Geoff even jumped from 2 meters and went down to his chest. It's calculated to be around 500 meters deep. We got covered all in it, face, hair, tried to swim, to do different positions. When we got up, there is a guy who stands there, who takes the mud off of you :), then you go to a lake nearby, and some women stand there, and wash you off :) They clean everything, and very hard (cause it's hard to wash off dried mud), ears, face, toes, chest, they also take your swimming suit off, and wash it for you :))) I've never experienced something like that in my whole life! Super fun ! On the way back we got a mototaxi, just in time to catch the last bus! On the bus it was my turn to pay, and I came up with a new theory that I'll give them how much money I think it should cost, like I know what I'm doing, and if it's not enough, they'll tell me. So I got out 10.000 bill, and casually gave it to the driver, and heard nothing back !!! Yippeee !!! Love it ! :)
Went to Playa Blanca which is supposed to be one of the most amazing beaches in Colombia where everybody goes. The way there was nice. First we took a bus across all the city, then a canoe to cross the river, and at the other side of the river there are mototaxies waiting to take tourists to the beach. It was a nice half an hour ride. Once we got there, we found a tent for 10.000 a night, perfect ! That was the best part of the beach, the way there (and the way back). There is no white sand ! There are no tropics ! It's overcrowded with people, tents, vendors, restaurants, people are hassling everybody all the time. We decided to get a massage. What a ripoff! You can't argue with them at all ! First of all they said it is half an hour, it was 15 minutes max. Then I said that I want a massage for 15.000, she said ok. During all the massage she tried to sell me more time, I said no, and insisted on only 15.000 like at least 5 times. At the end, she said, oh, it's 20.000. I said why? Oh, because I did the legs too. I tried to argue that I didn't ask for it, but it was pointless, and everything after that was just at the same level. I was irritated for the whole day, and couldn't wait for tomorrow to come so we could leave. I didn't swim at all, and woke up at 12 pm the next day just to spend less time on that beach. The way back was also nice, because it was a big boat, and they had a dance lesson there, which of course I joined, and of course I danced with the instructor !! :)))
Got back to Cartagena, and booked a ticket on a night bus to Medallin, and what do you know, Eva booked a bus ticket to cartagena on the same night :(
pix at http://picasaweb.google.com/ed4330/TheCoast#
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